A jaw-dropper, with quince, persimmon, mango, fig and blood orange marmalade notes providing a kaleidoscopic experience as this moves along, slowly pulling in more ginger, marzipan, green fig and date notes. The finish is so seamless it feels like glistening porcelain. Drink now through 2040. (12/2016)

The 1990 Chateau Gilette Creme de Tete is the latest release from the Medeville family. It has a curious bouquet that is minty and full of dried white flowers, but it feels contained at the moment, the aromas demanding more time in bottle to coalesce. The palate is fresh on the entry with subtle hints of nougat, quince, walnut, almond and white fennel toward the finish. Having subsequently tasted much older vintages, I can see how this is still a nascent Gilette that will benefit from another ten years in bottle. 92+ (NM) (6/2014)