Peter Jakob Kuhn, Rheingau, Mittleheim, Sankt Nikolaus, Riesling, Grosses Gewachs, Trocken 2014
Peter is the 11th-generation proprietor of his family's 1786 estate, having taken over in the 1970s. But it was not until the 1990s that he began to separate himself from everyone else.
At the time, while others in the Rheingau remained committed to sweet cuvées, Kühn moved towards making dry Rieslings from his best sites. But he didn’t stop there, removing the “safety net” of conventional farming and enological products to maximize the purity and expression of his noble lagen.
Through his willingness to take risks, Kühn is today making singularly profound Rieslings that explore their terroirs in a way previously unheard of in the Rheingau.
94 points Vinous
Ripely fragrant, brightly juicy lime, grapefruit and yellow plum wreathed in elder flower and strongly marked by the piquancy of peel, seed and pit are in no way inhibited by the hint of resin evident from cask; on the contrary, that slight influence of wood only amplifies the wine’s zesty, vibratory personality. Bittersweet nuttiness adds low tones on a palate of satiny, almost creamy texture. The finish here bursts with juicy refreshment even as it delivers depth and intrigue. (DS)(9/2016)