Jean Foillard, Morgon, Cote du Py 2017

Founded in 1981 by Jean and Agnès Foillard, most of Domaine Jean Foillard's organically-farmed vineyards are planted on the Côte du Py, outside the town of Villié-Morgon. Spanning roughly 14 hectares, the Foillards’ Gamay vines range in age from 10 to 90 years old. From the importer: "Every year Foillard brings us a flawless Côte du Py, always one of the best three or four Beaujolais of the vintage. The purity and sensuality of a Foillard Morgon is a beautiful thing to behold. If this wine doesn’t convert the most die-hard of anti-Beaujolais fanatics, nothing will, and if it doesn’t, well, I pity their ungrateful leaden palates. A handful of vignerons represent a pendulum swing countering the gallons of plonk that have damaged the reputation of a major wine region."

94 Points Jamie Goode, Wine Anorak

13.5% alcohol. This is from the special terroir of Côte du Py in Morgon. It’s not granitic, and it’s not volcanic (as some claim). Instead, the soils are blue stones, known as roche pourrie (rotten rock) from decomposed schist. They are the oldest soils in the region (400 myo), and are rich in manganese and iron oxide. The wines that result are distinctive and structural, and generally age well. This is deeply coloured with a slight lift to the green-tinged black fruits nose. It’s quite floral, with a touch of sweetness (the volatile acidity is in check, but adds lift and a hint of sweetness). The palate has lovely focus and definition, with a nice acid line and taut tannic structure, reining in the sleek, sweet fruit with real density and focus. This should age really nicely: there’s an approachability to it, but just when you think it is too friendly, it gets all stern on you. It’s a profound and somewhat perplexing wine: is it about drinkability, or is it a keeper? There’s certainly some tannin here, but it’s not at all harsh. I love it: it has so many dimensions. 94/100

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