Enderle & Moll, Baden, Pinot Noir, "Liaison" 2018
All wines purchased upon release, many purchased importer-direct, and all stored in a purpose built redundant temperature and humidity controlled cellar.
The 2018 Enderle & Moll Pinot Noir "Liaison" is widely celebrated by collectors and natural wine lovers as a stellar expression of this landmark cuvée. Sourced from 45 to 50+-year-old vines, the "Liaison" gets its name because it is a masterful marriage of the estate's two primary soil types in Baden: colored sandstone and shell limestone.
• The Soil Influence: The colored sandstone infuses the wine with a heady, extroverted perfume of exotic florals and spices, while the shell limestone provides rigid structural focus, tight minerality, and fine-grained form.
• Aromatics: A deeply fragrant, sappy nose overflowing with ripe red cherries, cranberries, and red raspberries, layered with secondary complexities of damp forest floor, dried herbs, kitchen spice, and menthol.
• Palate: Unmistakably pure, fine, and delineated. The fruit profiles are noticeably deeper, darker, and more purple/blue than those of their entry-level Basis bottling. It delivers a light-plus to medium body with incredibly vivid acidity and perfectly woven, focused tannins.
• Natural Winemaking Nuance: True to their low-intervention style, the wine displays a faint, well-integrated edge of volatile acidity (VA). Rather than being a distraction, it acts as an accent that lifts the fresh fruit character and sweetens the acid line.
Florian Moll (alongside his partner Geraldine and cellar-master Maxence) is one of Germany’s most sought-after Pinot Noir producers. Even though they only started in 2007, the estate has already developed a cult following, despite their ‘no fuss’ low tech approach. Florian cultivates 4 hectares of vines in Münchweier, a historic winemaking village on the slopes of the Black Forest in Baden. The sandstone and limestone rich soils found here are capable of yielding lifted and focused expressions of Pinot Noir, and he is lucky to have some of the oldest Pinot Noir vines in Baden. Florian does not have a certification, but believes that farming organically is the ‘new old’, normal way that his grandfather’s generation would have always practice. Despite being the exception to the rule in the otherwise heavily industrialised (however small structured) region of Baden, all the steep vineyard work is done by hand. Naturally, the yields are kept very low. The grapes are pressed with a pneumatic press and elévage is carried out in used barrels between 225 and 500L in size.
Despite often being compared to great Burgundian estates, Florian is not trying to replicate the Burgundian style. For him and his team, it is far more important to capture and express the potential of their own impressive terroir. Overly ripe fruit and high alcohol levels can obscure terroir, which is why they choose to declassify all their wines to ‘Tafelwein’ (table wine). This frees them up to make wine in a more transparent and energetic style; a far cry from the heavy-handed Pinot Noirs that Baden is often associated with.
Over the past few years, they have also proven a real talent for more experimental white and skin- contact wines, and in fact, they were making unfiltered, low sulphur white wines years before Germany saw a birth of young generation natural winemakers that adopted this style.
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- 6 standard bottles or 12 standard bottles
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