Enderle & Moll, Baden, Pinot Noir, "Liaison" 2022

Regular price $50.00 USD
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All wines purchased upon release, many purchased importer-direct, and all stored in a purpose built redundant temperature and humidity controlled cellar.

The 2022 Enderle & Moll Pinot Noir "Liaison" is widely considered by top wine buyers and critics to be one of the single greatest values in European Pinot Noir, with many hailing it as the finest, most seductive Liaison bottling since the legendary 2018 vintage.
The 2022 growing season in Baden provided an exceptional balance of warmth and brightness, allowing winemaker Florian Moll to capture an absurd level of juicy, concentrated depth while maintaining the trademark low-intervention vitality and low alcohol that defined the estate.

The 2022 vintage represents one of the final full chapters of Enderle & Moll before the cult estate permanently closed its doors following the 2023 season. Because these allocations are highly limited and finite, bottles must be tracked down through specialty back-vintage

• The Soil Marriage: True to its name, this cuvée acts as a perfect "liaison" of old vines (55+ years old) rooted across a masterfully balanced split of colored sandstone (which infuses the wine with an airy, extroverted floral perfume) and shell limestone (which adds structural focus, fine-grained tannins, and vertical minerality).
• Aromatics: Strikingly complex and remarkably dense from the moment it is poured. The nose erupts with notes of cherries as ripe as can be, dark plums, licorice, and lavender, layered with deeply savory undertones of porcini mushroom, damp earth, and gunsmoke.
• Palate: Incredibly coat-your-mouth juicy and fleshy, yet anchored by a crisp, laser-focused structural spine. It feels light-to-medium-bodied but possesses a serious, fine-grained tannic grip and a persistent streak of refreshing, tart blood orange acidity.
• Technical Details: The wine is fermented spontaneously using native yeasts with a significant inclusion of whole clusters, then aged gently in neutral French oak barrels sourced from Burgundy's iconic Domaine Dujac. It is bottled completely unfined and unfiltered with an alcohol level of 13% ABV.

Florian Moll (alongside his partner Geraldine and cellar-master Maxence) is one of Germany’s most sought-after Pinot Noir producers. Even though they only started in 2007, the estate has already developed a cult following, despite their ‘no fuss’ low tech approach. Florian cultivates 4 hectares of vines in Münchweier, a historic winemaking village on the slopes of the Black Forest in Baden. The sandstone and limestone rich soils found here are capable of yielding lifted and focused expressions of Pinot Noir, and he is lucky to have some of the oldest Pinot Noir vines in Baden. Florian does not have a certification, but believes that farming organically is the ‘new old’, normal way that his grandfather’s generation would have always practice. Despite being the exception to the rule in the otherwise heavily industrialised (however small structured) region of Baden, all the steep vineyard work is done by hand. Naturally, the yields are kept very low. The grapes are pressed with a pneumatic press and elévage is carried out in used barrels between 225 and 500L in size.

Despite often being compared to great Burgundian estates, Florian is not trying to replicate the Burgundian style. For him and his team, it is far more important to capture and express the potential of their own impressive terroir. Overly ripe fruit and high alcohol levels can obscure terroir, which is why they choose to declassify all their wines to ‘Tafelwein’ (table wine). This frees them up to make wine in a more transparent and energetic style; a far cry from the heavy-handed Pinot Noirs that Baden is often associated with.

Over the past few years, they have also proven a real talent for more experimental white and skin- contact wines, and in fact, they were making unfiltered, low sulphur white wines years before Germany saw a birth of young generation natural winemakers that adopted this style.

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