Chandon de Briailles, Pernand-Vergelesses, Les Vergelesses 2005
90 John Gilman
The 2005 les Vergelesses is a really superb example of the vintage and will no doubt prove to be one of the great steals of this watershed vintage. As readers will recall, the 2005 vintage was the first truly brutally expensive vintage in the region, as speculation of top wines from Burgundy really arrived with this top flight year and prices soared exorbitantly. Happily, no wine arbitrage specialists seem to be aware of the existence of les Vergelesses! The 2005 is a lovely wine, offering up a deep and pure nose of cherries, red berries, grilled game, incipient autumnal tones, deep soil nuances and a bit of bonfire in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and tangy, with a fairly closed personality at the present time, a sappy core of fruit, ripe, firm tannins and a long, promising and chewy finish. Give this lovely wine another five or six years to start to really blossom. I clearly thought this wine would drink sooner when I first tasted it out of barrel, but I underestimated the inherent structure of the vintage at that time, and this certainly deserves a bit more bottle age before broaching. (Drink between 2019-2040) 90+ 03/2014
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