Jean-Louis Chave, Hermitage 1997

The “Bollito not boiled” is one of Bottura’s classic dishes (seven different cuts of beef slowly cooked—for 36 hours—at a lower-than-usual temperature), while the “Beautiful, psychedelic…” veal creation is a far more modern Pollock-esque take on meat, but both match splendidly with Chave’s heavenly 1997 Hermitage Rouge. I’m not much for extremely rich, almost fat reds (and ’97 pushed the envelope) but this wine has aged magnificently and comes across as plush yet graceful, a neat trick. Stylishly supple and glyceral, it overpowers neither the veal nor the bollito. (ID)(12/2014)

Back when the 1997 Chave was released, there were already signs of a more polished and glossy style emerging here with this vintage, as the wine had a bit more new oak showing and a more refined personality out of the blocks compared to any of the earlier vintages of the 1990s here, but the wine has aged beautifully and is quite classical in profile today. The bouquet is beautifully marked with red fruit elements and quite stunning, soaring from the glass in a mix of red and black raspberries, exotic spice tones, spit-roasted meats, a superb base of soil, pepper and a touch of cedary new oak still evident in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and perfectly balanced, with a lovely core of fruit, excellent soil signature, melting tannins and a long, complex and utterly refined finish. Fine, fine juice. (3/2019)

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