GARDENING | the Jean-François Coche and Odile Dury way – CHAPTER 4

One need only speak of Meursault to evoke a myriad of questions regarding the village’s resident icon, Jean-François Coche. He began working in the family vineyards alongside his father, Georges, at the age of fourteen, becoming the third generation of Coches to tend these vines. His marriage to Odile Dury in 1975 added to the family holdings, which lead to the formation of Domaine Coche- Dury. Since then, the enigmatic, modest, Jean-François has only reluctantly accepted the celebrity status of his wines. When asked, he would be most likely say that it is rigor, constant vigilance, and adherence to old-school tradition that makes the wines so special. Jean-François’ heritage seems more closely linked to the studious, farmer-monks that once propagated this area of Burgundy during the Middle Ages than to the stocky Gauls of lore, as his work style is almost hermetical. When Kermit, Coche’s biggest single client, calls for a rendezvous, he is always told, “Only in the evening when I come back from the vines.” Today, his son, Raphaël, has taken the reins with his wife, Charline, and the two continue the family tradition with great reverence.

DOMAINE QUICK GLANCE

Country: France
Region: Burgundy
Appellation(s): Bourgogne, Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, Volnay, Auxey-Duresses, Monthelie, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru Producer: Raphaël Coche
Founded: 1973
Annual Production: 4,200 cases
Farming: Lutte Raisonnée (since 1973)

The Coche’s farm almost nine hectares of vineyards on minuscule parcels over six communes: Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, Auxey-Duresses, Monthelie, Volnay, and Pommard. Approximately half of their holdings are situated around their hometown of Meursault, with their parcels of Bourgogne surrounding the home and winery. Though they are best known for their Chardonnay, they also bottle six exquisite Pinot Noirs. No clones of any kind are planted—an absolute rarity in Burgundy, where cold, humid winters, spontaneous springtime hail storms, and harvest rains all make farming a challenge. Once in the cellar, vinifications are long and traditional, with extended lees contact. This extra time on the lees prevents oxidation and works in tandem with the terrific freshness his grapes achieve. Larger-than-usual doses of new wood are used, not with the intention of indulging a trend, but rather to extend the cellar-aging potential of these pedigreed wines and to serve as a clean slate for perfect fruit. Dixon Brooke explains, “Coche believes strongly that the white wines of Burgundy should have nerve, and his are never among the ripest or highest in alcohol of his colleagues. It is their vibrant acidity, often hidden in the opulence that helps them to age so successfully and predictably.” Though their bottlings are extremely limited, any chance to taste the wines of Coche-Dury promises a rare glimpse into some of the greatest vineyard management and winemaking in the world.

WILLIAM KELLEY | Evolution of the Domaine's style

DOMAINE BREAKDOWN

Bourgogne Blanc	Chardonnay	Planted in 1930, 1958, 1975	Clay, Limestone	1 ha
Meursault	Chardonnay	varies	Clay, Limestone	4.25 ha
Meursault Les Rougeots	Chardonnay	Planted in 1940, 1962, 1973	Clay, Limestone	.70 ha
Meursault Les Chevalières	Chardonnay	Planted in 1958	Clay, Limestone	.12 ha
Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseignères	Chardonnay	Planted from 1930 - 1952	Clay, Limestone	.50 ha
Meursault-Perrières 1er Cru	Chardonnay	Planted in 1950, 1970, 2005	Limestone	.50 ha
Meursault-Caillerets 1er Cru	Chardonnay	Planted in 1994	Limestone	.18 ha
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru	Chardonnay	Planted in 1960	Clay, Limestone	.33 ha
Bourgogne Rouge	Pinot Noir	Planted from 1973 – 1980	Clay, Sand	.75 ha
Monthelie Côte de Beaune Rouge	Pinot Noir	Planted in 1987	Clay, Limestone	.25 ha
Meursault Côte de Beaune Rouge	Pinot Noir	Planted in 1980	Clay, Limestone	12 ha
Auxey-Duresses Rouge	Pinot Noir	Planted in 1982	Clay, Limestone	.5 ha
Volnay 1er Cru (Blend of Taillepieds and Clos des Chênes)	Pinot Noir	Planted in 1962, 1987	Clay, Limestone	.33 ha

VITICULTURE / VINIFICATION

All wines are raised in barrel and aged for 15 to 22 months, depending on the vintage and wine
All wines bottled unfiltered; reds are fined with egg whites
Reds are fully de-stemmed and the Coches favor a “vinification douce” or soft vinification for their Pinot Noir

Hospices de Beaune Cuvées:

2017 Volnay Santenots “Cuvée Gauvin”: Sourced from Les Plures and Les Santenots du Milieu climats
2017 Corton Rouge “Cuvée Charlotte Dumay”: Sourced from Les Renardes and Les Bressandes climats
2018 Volnay 1er Cru “Cuvée Général Muteau”: Sourced from Les Fremiets, Carelle sous Chapelle, Les Caillerets, En Taillepieds, Le Village (above la Chapelle)
2018 Pommard Epenots “Cuvée Dom Goblet”: Sourced from Les Petits Epenots

At the beginning of the growing season, the vines start on a pretty even playing field with their neighbors, at least in terms of appearance. But the further Spring and Summer advance, the more striking the difference becomes. The Coche-Dury vineyards are tended like gardens, every vine immaculate, no pushing weeds, even the stony topsoil raked to perfection. The vines are vibrant, bursting with life and energy from their roots, buried deep in the soil. The Coches are the first out in the vines every day in Burgundy, and among the last home...These long hours pay off at the end of the year, because the reward is some of the most beautiful grapes in Burgundy, and that is the secret to their stunning success.