Coche-Dury, Meursault, Les Rougeots 1999
1.0cm or better; Serial numbers 148, 150-151
The Coches farm almost nine hectares of vineyards on minuscule parcels over six communes: Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, Auxey-Duresses, Monthelie, and Volnay. Approximately half of their holdings are situated around their hometown of Meursault, with their parcels of Bourgogne surrounding the home and winery. Though they are best known for their Chardonnay, they also bottle six exquisite Pinot Noirs. No clones of any kind are planted - an absolute rarity in Burgundy, where cold, humid winters, spontaneous springtime hail storms, and harvest rains all make farming a challenge. Once in the cellar, vinifications are long and traditional, with extended lees contact. This extra time on the lees prevents oxidation and works in tandem with the terrific freshness his grapes achieve. A good proportion of new wood is used, not to influence the taste of the wine, but rather to extend the cellar-aging potential of these pedigreed wines and to serve as a clean slate for perfect fruit...Though their bottlings are extremely limited, any chance to taste the wines of Coche-Dury promises a rare glimpse into some of the greatest vineyard management and winemaking in the world.
The white wine Chardonnay vineyards cultivated by the estate include 0.34 hectares of Grand cru vineyard Corton-Charlemagne which was acquired in 1986 and three holdings of Premier Cru vineyards in Meursault with 0.5 acres in Perriéres, 0.18 acres in Caillerets and 0.21 acres in Genevriéres. Village classified vineyard holdings consist of 0.13 acres of Chevalières and 0.73 acres of Rougeots, both in Meursault, plus half an acre of the Puligny-Montrachet Enseignières acquired in 1985.
William Kelley opines on the controversial "Coche Reduction" characteristics in Coche-Dury wines:
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