Knebel, Winninger Uhlen, Auslese, Riesling 2005 (375ml)

97 points Wine Advocate

The 2005 Winninger Uhlen Riesling Auslese A.P. #7 exhibits a very distinct botrytis character in its aromas of baking bread, truffles, and black tea -- all reminding me of a great 1971 -- along with broiled grapefruit and high-toned suggestions of herbal and floral distillates. On the palate, this displays a refinement and delicacy that belie its 160 degrees Oechsle and further set it aside for the other wines here today and a modest impression of sweetness that totally belie its high residual sugar. Very creamy and viscous in texture but not in the least bit heavy, with a deep, peachy richness augmented by vanilla cream, nut paste, brown spices, subtle smokiness of botrytis, wet stone, and mineral salts, this preserves lime and grapefruit citricity and fresh peach flavors that keep the finish lively in addition to its being profound. One of the greatest Mosel Rieslings I tasted in my early merchant years was (thanks to Terry Theise) a 1976 Uhlen Auslese from (now defunct) Horeth-Schaff. It is a joy to know that this great site is again being permitted to grow nobly sweet wine of similar stature and ageworthiness. (DS) (2/2007)

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