Bruno Giacosa, Barbaresco, Gallina di Neive 1996
Base of neck
93 Points John Gilman
To my mind, the Gallina bottling from Bruno Giacosa is one of the more underrated wines in his portfolio, as it always seems to have to wrestle to get out from under the long shadow cast by this estate’s bottlings of Santa Stefano. But Gallina is one of the great vineyards in Neive in its own right, and I am always happy to come across this bottling from Bruno Giacosa, as it often can offer up a bit more value than the Santa Stefano. The 1996 Gallina is a superb wine in need of several more years bottle age before it really blossoms, but with its outstanding character already readily apparent. The first rate nose offers up a mélange of cherries, orange zest, road tar, oregano, woodsmoke, fennel seed, lovely soil tones (that will become autumnal with more bottle age) and a topnote of coffee. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, deep and quite tarry still today, with a lovely, soil-driven personality, a rock solid core of red fruit, firm tannins and excellent length and grip on the tangy and already quite complex finish. A superb Gallina.09/2019
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