Domaine Tempier, Bandol, Cuvee Speciale Cabassaou 1995 (1.5L)

Into Neck; very lightly stained label

97 Points CellarTracker Member

My WOTN.

'90 Tourtine was the silver fox, this was dynamic and shifting and energetic - bright light through a spinning kaleidoscope. Pipe tobacco & berries.

It sings and develops from hour 1 - 4 (when it was finished). To quote our friend in the Moulin Rouge - “Spectacular. Spectacular!” Just reaching peak and the peak feels like it will be a multi-year affair. 11/1/2023

96 Points CellarTracker Member

The organically farmed grapes are sourced from a small amphitheater at the bottom of the Tourtine vineyard planted to mainly Mourvèdre. The cuvée is typically 90-95% Mourvèdre with the remainder rounded out with Syrah and a little bit of Cinsaut. Fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts, macerated for 3-4 weeks, aged for approx. 18 months in large oak foudres. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 13,5% alcohol. Tasted in a Tempier 2003-1990 tasting.

Moderately translucent dark red color with a pale terracotta red rim. Surprisingly youthful for its age. The nose feels somewhat restrained and slightly dusty with quite tertiary aromas of wizened dark forest fruits, some beef jerky, a little bit of sweet volatile lift, light rustic notes of earth and farmhouse and a hint of dried flowers. Overall the nose comes across as quite developed and not particularly intense, but nevertheless pretty attractive. The wine is intense, textural and ripe on the palate with a moderately full body and complex flavors of ripe dark fruits, some sweet wizened figs and dark plums, a little bit of garrigue, light umami notes of bloody meat, a hint of leather and an evolved touch of bouillon. Structurally the wine is impressively built, thanks to its rather high acidity and still quite tightly-knit, assertive and grippy tannins. The persistent finish is savory, textural and quite grippy with complex and very lengthy flavors of meaty umami, wizened sour cherries, some rusty notes of sanguine iron, a little bit of beef jerky, light crunchy notes of ripe cranberries, a hint of pruney fruit and a touch of leather.

An outstanding wine that has all the hallmarks of an evolved Bandol: powerful, muscular fruit; stern tannic structure; some rustic notes of understated funk; and a good combination of those savory, tertiary notes that have joined the fruitier tones without overwhelming anything. The wine feels like it is at its plateau of maturity now: it is going to keep good for many more years, but most likely it isn't going to improve from here anymore. Easily among the best wines in the tasting and only because of its somewhat underwhelming and dusty nose it didn't manage to reach the heights of the top wines (La Tourtine 2001 and Cabassaou 1998). Nevertheless, a spectacular vintage of Tempier. Very highly recommended. 8/27/2020