La Rioja Alta, Rioja, Gran Reserva 904 1989

Base neck

A blend of Tempranillo (90%) and Mazuelo aka. Carignan and Graciano (10%). Fermented in large oak vats over 8 months. Aged for 4 years (from June 1990 to June 1994) in American oak barrels that are on average 4 years old. Bottled in July 1994. 12,5% alcohol, 5,6 g/l acidity, 0,85 g/l VA and 26,3 g/l dry extract.

Moderately translucent and rather evolved maroon color with a pale orange rim. Wonderfully fragrant, evolved and complex nose with intoxicating aromas of wizened cranberries, meat stew and dill, old leather-bound books, some vanilla, a little bit of new leather, light oxidative notes of soy sauce, dried-fruit hints of raisins and dried dates and a touch of farmhouse funk. The wine is dry and firm yet silky on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and savory, tertiary flavors of sour cherries, meat stew, some wizened cranberries and dried lingonberries, a little bit of dill, light notes of tobacco, savory hints of new leather and gamey meat and a touch of vanilla oak. The structure relies mostly on the acidity as the ample tannins feel fully resolved and mainly contribute to the silky texture, not to the structure. The remarkably persistent finish is dry, complex and silky with very gentle tannic grip and a savory aftertaste of sour cherries, dried cranberries, beef jerky, some leather saddle notes, a little bit of tobacco and meat stew, light dried-fruit notes of raisins and wizened figs, a hint of vanilla and a touch of tertiary umami character.

A beautiful, harmonious and wonderfully classic 904 caught in a perfect spot. The wine is slowly starting to get tertiary and virtually all the tannins seem to have melted away, resulting in a wine that retains the hallmarks of a great 904 - vibrant, dry red-toned fruit, high acidity and a balanced backdrop of vanilla oak - but also sports tons of mature complexity that has only contributed to the depth of flavor without overwhelming any of the vibrant fruit qualities. This is really a textbook example why one should keep on aging these wonderful wines. I'd say the wine is now on its plateau of maturity - and has been there for some time - and I doubt the wine continues to improve from here. Most likely it will keep good for years, perhaps even for a decade - or longer - but the only direction the wine is going to go from here is down. Drink or keep. 6/19/2021

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