Jean-Louis Chave, Hermitage 1998

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Wow – immediately as you lift the glass it's clear that this is the essence of Hermitage. Smoky berry fruits soar from the glass, joined by notes of perfumed cigar box, smoky bacon, bonfire smoke, star anise and incense. It's full and cooling on the palate, with no excess weight despite its breadth and depth of flavor. Lovely sappy berry acidity runs through it, leading to a long, weightless, saline finish. A really precise and fine wine, highly complex, well balanced and classically Hermitage. (MW) (6/2019)

Another fantastic Hermitage from J-L Chave, this bottle enjoyed at The Harrow Inn. Given ample decanting, one can see the multi-faceted nature of this wine. A deep garnet core. A sensuous, beguiling bouquet just soars from the glass; dark cherries, game, thyme, rosemary, liquorices and a hint of white fennel. The palate is full-bodied with svelte, lush tannins but counterbalanced by a robust structure that suggests this is a long-term Hermitage. Wonderful balance, cashmere texture, almost Burgundian towards the finish. A delirious wine. (NM) (9/2009)

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