Domaine Les Matheny, Arbois, Chardonnay 2019

There is a shortlist of top producers who seem to have “cracked the code” in Jura by releasing outstanding, world-class wine every vintage: Houillon-Overnoy, Jacques Puffeney (recently retired; vines now leased by Domaine du Pélican), Jean-François Ganevat, Michel Gahier—these are names that sommeliers and collectors fight over every release, and we believe Les Matheny is quickly scaling this fabled ivory tower.

This 2019 from Les Matheny is pure, classic, highest-quality Jura Chardonnay. It couldn’t be anything else. It pours a deep, deep yellow-gold in the glass with flashes of green and takes its time releasing an intoxicating array of aromas. A skilled touch of (encouraged) oxidation throughout the wines three-year élevage in barrel delivers brooding notes of bruised pear, quince, overripe pineapple, yellow and green apples, marzipan, preserved Meyer lemon, crushed almonds, fino sherry, honeycomb, crushed river stone, exotic baking spice, and damp acacia. On the palate, a textural masterpiece unfolds.