J.P. Fichet, Meursault, Les Tessons 2016
In Original Carton
More than any of his peers, Fichet has tested the limits of transparency, to find the very soul of Meursault’s terroirs. It was Meursault’s destiny to have its soils revealed in this way: their intense stoniness is magnified by an exceptionally low water table, forcing the vines’ roots deep underground. Fichet's work is a direct outgrowth of a breakthrough that happened three decades ago: René Lafon's decision to bottle his Meursault “Clos de la Barre” on its own. For a century before, such a thing had been unheard of, as only the most famous vineyards—the premier crus—were ever bottled individually; everything else was blended into Meursault villages. Lafon’s innovation not only proved that a lieu-dit (a non-classified vineyard) could say something profound, but it also drew attention to Meursault’s incredible soils—paving the way for the later accomplishments of Jean-François Coche, Jean-Marc Roulot and, of course, René Lafon’s son Dominique. But Fichet has carried Lafon’s revolution to another level—studying every square inch of earth and stone in his domaine to make Meursault’s purest set of single-climat wines.
93 points Burghound.com
I was quite impressed with this wine and Fichet remarked that he believes it's one of the best wines that he's ever made. A beautifully well-layered nose is comprised by notes of lemon rind, acacia blossom, white orchard fruit and a hint of hazelnut. The strikingly textured flavors possess a sophisticated mouth feel along with excellent volume while displaying lovely persistence on the markedly firm, serious and built-to-age finale. Lovely.
93 points Decanter
Fichet’s Tessons is superb this year, with a complex bouquet of pear, hazelnut, citrus zest and a lick of noble reduction. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, concentrated and glossy, with more amplitude and dimension than the other lieu-dit bottlings in the cellar, but lovely cut and energy too. An excellent wine by any measure - and in any vintage.
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