Enderle & Moll, Baden, Pinot Noir, "Liaison" 2021

Regular price $48.00 USD
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All wines purchased upon release, many purchased importer-direct, and all stored in a purpose built redundant temperature and humidity controlled cellar.

The 2021 Enderle & Moll Pinot Noir "Liaison" is a highly vital, expressive, and structurally precise vintage of this iconic German Spätburgunder. The 2021 growing season in Baden was notably cooler and wetter than the warm years that preceded it, resulting in a wine defined by its bracing acidity, lower alcohol, and pure, crystalline fruit focus.
This vintage also marked a major milestone for the estate: it was the first year Florian Moll took solo ownership of the winemaking following the departure of his long-time partner, Sven Enderle. Critics and natural wine enthusiasts have hailed the 2021 reds as an absolute return to form, capturing the weightless, high-acid, energetic style that originally put the winery on the map.

• The Soil Marriage: True to the "Liaison" name, the fruit is harvested from 45- to 50+-year-old vines grown across a split of Baden's two primary terroirs: the colored sandstone yields a beautiful, expressive perfume, while the shell limestone gives the wine its vertical, mineral-driven spine.
• Aromatics: Strikingly vibrant and fresh. The nose opens with crunchy sour cherry, tart wild raspberry, and blood orange peel, underscored by savory complexities of damp forest floor, pine needles, white pepper, and wild herbs.
• Palate: Weightless, vertical, and light-bodied. On the palate, it delivers a laser-like focus driven by intense, mouthwatering acidity. The tannins are fine-grained and chalky, framing a deeply savory core of red fruit that avoids feeling heavy.
• Technical Details: The wine is fermented spontaneously with wild yeasts, utilizing a portion of whole clusters, and aged in neutral French oak barrels. It is bottled completely unfined and unfiltered with an alcohol level of 12% to 12.5% ABV.

Florian Moll (alongside his partner Geraldine and cellar-master Maxence) is one of Germany’s most sought-after Pinot Noir producers. Even though they only started in 2007, the estate has already developed a cult following, despite their ‘no fuss’ low tech approach. Florian cultivates 4 hectares of vines in Münchweier, a historic winemaking village on the slopes of the Black Forest in Baden. The sandstone and limestone rich soils found here are capable of yielding lifted and focused expressions of Pinot Noir, and he is lucky to have some of the oldest Pinot Noir vines in Baden. Florian does not have a certification, but believes that farming organically is the ‘new old’, normal way that his grandfather’s generation would have always practice. Despite being the exception to the rule in the otherwise heavily industrialised (however small structured) region of Baden, all the steep vineyard work is done by hand. Naturally, the yields are kept very low. The grapes are pressed with a pneumatic press and elévage is carried out in used barrels between 225 and 500L in size.

Despite often being compared to great Burgundian estates, Florian is not trying to replicate the Burgundian style. For him and his team, it is far more important to capture and express the potential of their own impressive terroir. Overly ripe fruit and high alcohol levels can obscure terroir, which is why they choose to declassify all their wines to ‘Tafelwein’ (table wine). This frees them up to make wine in a more transparent and energetic style; a far cry from the heavy-handed Pinot Noirs that Baden is often associated with.

Over the past few years, they have also proven a real talent for more experimental white and skin- contact wines, and in fact, they were making unfiltered, low sulphur white wines years before Germany saw a birth of young generation natural winemakers that adopted this style.

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