Vieux Telegraphe, Chateauneuf du Pape, La Crau 2013
This superb Vieux Télégraphe vintage is the example other southern French winemakers could look to when seeking where to go next. It is a breakthrough wine. Daniel Brunier said concisely what he, his brother Frédéric, and I were thinking as we tasted it after the bottling: “Truly classic Vieux Télégraphe, deep and powerful as usual, yet showing great finesse and class, almost an ethereal quality.”
The bouquet is as lovely an expression of the stony plateau of La Crau as I can remember. It brings to mind the magnificent 1978, 1981, and 1983 Vieux Télégraphes. At Châteauneuf, you can’t do better.
And pay attention to the remarkable tannin that supports the weight of the wine so well—you can actually use the word ethereal to describe the wine on the palate. Revel in that tannin—so present, so lovely. “Good grip!,” as Clive Coates likes to say.
Drink the 2013 young, old, and in between. —Kermit Lynch
94 Points CellarTracker
Medium ruby core with faded brown rim. Ripe and fresh fruit, mostly red, on the nose. Sour cherry and strawberry dominate, blackberry second. Rose, licorice, tea, herbs. Garrigue. Pepper, anise. Earth, leather, baking spices, baked fruit bar. On the palate, vibrant red fruit. Spice and earth. Clingy but fine tannins. Very balanced and evolved. Probably approaching its peak. Second day: much less interesting but still great. Finish on the first day! 2/22/2025
93 Points CellarTracker
Excellent wine at the right sport. Decanted for one hour. Well balanced, tannins fully integrated. A bit of pepper, black fruits and leather. A pleasure to drink. 12/15/2023
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